Getting to Kendal from Preston was relatively easy. I took an early morning train. Thank goodness the concierge had told me I would need to change trains in Oxenholme or I could have landed in Blackpool by accident. Changing trains is really easy in England, but sometimes requires a bit of wait time. The sideline that goes to Kendal only goes every hour or so, when you miss one you have a wait in store. The larger stations have restrooms and snack machines--Oxenholme has both--but Kendal Station was closed and had neither. Set up on a hill, it overlooks the valley the runs along the Kent River and you can see the ruins of Kendal Castle in the distance.
Speaking of Kendal Castle, the one still standing was built in the 12th century and belonged in the family of Catherine Parr, one of the wives of Henry VIII. While rumors that she was born here were disproved, it is almost certain that she did spend some time here as a child.
One of the things that I had read about Kendal before arriving was that it was called "The Old Grey Man". This description is apt, for the buildings were primarily built of grey limestone and as you look down into the valley, that is pretty much all you see. I could tell immediately why my Gram was so at home in upstate New York. Kendal had the same feel of beauty and countryside and that "oldness" that makes it unique. This insight into my grandmother excited me immensely.
Another thing that I knew abut Kendal is that it was built in squares--buildings surrounding an inner courtyard. Indeed, I discovered while there that they called these divisions Yards and they were inhabited by residents of like industries--for example the Wool Yards or Baker's Yards. In fact, wool was the main product manufactured by the town for centuries and anyone seeing all the sheep grazing along the hillsides of this area of the world will understand that.
At some time, I think they said around the 16th century, a confectioner searching for what we would refer to as an "energy bar" developed Kendal Mint Cakes. These became the signature treat of the area and there are several companies that manufacture it still. Of course, I had to sample and they remind me a bit of the thin mint cookies that Girl Scouts sell.
As I pointed out initially, walking this town is very easy. There is one main drag called Strickland Gate and pretty much everything else branches off of it. And there is a lovely walk along the river which goes from the Kendal Parish Church (called Holy Trinity) all the way through the town. This is a marketing town and even though they have modernized it, the river walk and the main drag retain the feeling of history. There are a lot of Bed and Breakfast type places in Kendal and when I go back for more research, I will definitely stay in one of those.
Speaking of research, there is a county records office that holds all the information you can handle in a short visit. It is all indexed on microfilm or microfiche and you must have ID to enter the archives. They don't allow any pens, so if you want to take notes you'd better have a pencil handy and because so many of the records are fragile you are not allowed to photograph them, even with no flash and a digital camera. They will make copies for a fee and they will sell you a pencil for a tiny donation. They also have lockers for you to store purses, computers, cameras etc. I discovered after five hours, that I needed much more time. Because I was a good girl and followed all the rules, the archivist gave me a pass to all the archives in England! It is good for four years and there is not a fee.
I had viewed the map so many times, that I knew exactly how to get to my grandmother's house in Kendal. I stepped off the train and walked right to it. I had gotten the address from my grandmother's immigration papers. Her last residence in England had been at #13 Caroline Street. I discovered that this was a group of row houses near the county records office and the Church of St. Thomas. The thing that stood out about #13, to me anyway, was the electric blue around the door. I am surprised they didn't have the police there to check me out, I took photos from all angles and even got a peek at the backyard by walking a block over and sneaking into an alleyway that ran to the rear of the homes. Couldn't see much though and didn't want to scare the locals. I found out later that this house belonged in the Bryant family. My grandmother's grandmother was Mary Bryant and the Winskills had lived with her while waiting for their father (my great grandfather)to send them the money to come to the United States.
I actually touched the stones around the window of the house and thought...my grandmother touched these very rocks one hundred years ago. It was as chilling as it was thrilling. I felt closer to her than I had in decades.
There is a wonderful pub in Kendal that seemed to be a hub for tourists: Charlie's Cafe Bar. It has historical significance and I really loved the food. I learned something new here as well. In English pubs, they don't generally have table service. You pick a table, then queue up to order. You tell the waitress your table number with your order and then they either deliver it or call you to the bar when your meal is ready. The cheese was fresh, creamy and delicious. There were tasty cream cakes and pies and sandwiches. I had some awesome leek soup. Why does soup taste better in England than in the U.S.?
The last Harry Potter book was coming out in July, so there were advertisements in the shop windows. It amused me to see Harry so prominently displayed in the ancient town. There was also an incredible quilt which I had to photograph. A Harry quilt? Only in England!
There was a lot more to see and do in Kendal than can be done in one day. I missed several museums and the parish church was closed, despite the advertised hours on the door. I also didn't feel like trekking all the way up to the ruins, so satisfied myself with the old city gates--which might be older anyway.
Another spot that intrigued me was Beast Banks. I had one other familial address in Kendal. The Nelson side of my family lived in #2 Beast Banks. One record that I found said that one of my Nelson ancestors had been an Innkeeper. Imagine my delight to discover that #1 Beast Banks just happens to be the Black Swan Inn. Although I have never found any documentation, the coincidence is too great to be ignored. My family must have been involved in the historical Black Swan.
I left Kendal late in the evening, enjoying the shut down of the town. The journey back to Preston was uneventful and easy. The bus ride to the hotel uncomplicated. My trip to my roots was satisfying and I fell in love with Kendal!
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