Train Travel in England

Many people have told me that train travel in Europe is the way to go. Having taken the train under many circumstances now, I am going to say they are right IF you are not towing a huge suitcase.

Traveling from Preston to London should have been an easy thing. Getting the tickets was simple enough. I discovered that I had to travel to Euston Station even though I wanted to go to Waterloo. That wasn't tragic, just inconvenient. I knew once I got into London proper, I could take the tube anywhere I needed to go.

The problems occurred when I didn't make a mistake with my tickets this time. I booked a second class ticket not realizing that my suitcase was bigger than the aisle. Hey, I was going to LIVE in London for the summer. I needed a lot of stuff. In any case, I couldn't freely move into the train with my huge bag. Plus, travelling on a Monday, as I did, was miserable because everyone and his brother was on the train going into London. Finally, in frustration, I just plopped my bag down in the connection between cars and sat on it. I could have reserved a seat, but I chose not to. The conductor, who was a gem, came by and by rearranging some of the other passengers' belongings, I was able to finally fit into the car. Three hours to London sitting in the connector would have been a lousy way to go.

I am not one to talk incessantly during travel, so I was pleasantly ensconsed in a seat next to a steroetypical Londoner--firmly seated behind his newspaper for the eintre journey. There was a nice little snack car and a trolley that went down the aisle. Both were a little pricey but convenient. The bathrooms were miniscule.

All in all, once the initial issues were solved, getting to London was easy as could be expected.

Kendal, A Step Back In Time to the City of Gram

Getting to Kendal from Preston was relatively easy. I took an early morning train. Thank goodness the concierge had told me I would need to change trains in Oxenholme or I could have landed in Blackpool by accident. Changing trains is really easy in England, but sometimes requires a bit of wait time. The sideline that goes to Kendal only goes every hour or so, when you miss one you have a wait in store. The larger stations have restrooms and snack machines--Oxenholme has both--but Kendal Station was closed and had neither. Set up on a hill, it overlooks the valley the runs along the Kent River and you can see the ruins of Kendal Castle in the distance.

Speaking of Kendal Castle, the one still standing was built in the 12th century and belonged in the family of Catherine Parr, one of the wives of Henry VIII. While rumors that she was born here were disproved, it is almost certain that she did spend some time here as a child.

One of the things that I had read about Kendal before arriving was that it was called "The Old Grey Man". This description is apt, for the buildings were primarily built of grey limestone and as you look down into the valley, that is pretty much all you see. I could tell immediately why my Gram was so at home in upstate New York. Kendal had the same feel of beauty and countryside and that "oldness" that makes it unique. This insight into my grandmother excited me immensely.

Another thing that I knew abut Kendal is that it was built in squares--buildings surrounding an inner courtyard. Indeed, I discovered while there that they called these divisions Yards and they were inhabited by residents of like industries--for example the Wool Yards or Baker's Yards. In fact, wool was the main product manufactured by the town for centuries and anyone seeing all the sheep grazing along the hillsides of this area of the world will understand that.

At some time, I think they said around the 16th century, a confectioner searching for what we would refer to as an "energy bar" developed Kendal Mint Cakes. These became the signature treat of the area and there are several companies that manufacture it still. Of course, I had to sample and they remind me a bit of the thin mint cookies that Girl Scouts sell.

As I pointed out initially, walking this town is very easy. There is one main drag called Strickland Gate and pretty much everything else branches off of it. And there is a lovely walk along the river which goes from the Kendal Parish Church (called Holy Trinity) all the way through the town. This is a marketing town and even though they have modernized it, the river walk and the main drag retain the feeling of history. There are a lot of Bed and Breakfast type places in Kendal and when I go back for more research, I will definitely stay in one of those.

Speaking of research, there is a county records office that holds all the information you can handle in a short visit. It is all indexed on microfilm or microfiche and you must have ID to enter the archives. They don't allow any pens, so if you want to take notes you'd better have a pencil handy and because so many of the records are fragile you are not allowed to photograph them, even with no flash and a digital camera. They will make copies for a fee and they will sell you a pencil for a tiny donation. They also have lockers for you to store purses, computers, cameras etc. I discovered after five hours, that I needed much more time. Because I was a good girl and followed all the rules, the archivist gave me a pass to all the archives in England! It is good for four years and there is not a fee.

I had viewed the map so many times, that I knew exactly how to get to my grandmother's house in Kendal. I stepped off the train and walked right to it. I had gotten the address from my grandmother's immigration papers. Her last residence in England had been at #13 Caroline Street. I discovered that this was a group of row houses near the county records office and the Church of St. Thomas. The thing that stood out about #13, to me anyway, was the electric blue around the door. I am surprised they didn't have the police there to check me out, I took photos from all angles and even got a peek at the backyard by walking a block over and sneaking into an alleyway that ran to the rear of the homes. Couldn't see much though and didn't want to scare the locals. I found out later that this house belonged in the Bryant family. My grandmother's grandmother was Mary Bryant and the Winskills had lived with her while waiting for their father (my great grandfather)to send them the money to come to the United States.

I actually touched the stones around the window of the house and thought...my grandmother touched these very rocks one hundred years ago. It was as chilling as it was thrilling. I felt closer to her than I had in decades.

There is a wonderful pub in Kendal that seemed to be a hub for tourists: Charlie's Cafe Bar. It has historical significance and I really loved the food. I learned something new here as well. In English pubs, they don't generally have table service. You pick a table, then queue up to order. You tell the waitress your table number with your order and then they either deliver it or call you to the bar when your meal is ready. The cheese was fresh, creamy and delicious. There were tasty cream cakes and pies and sandwiches. I had some awesome leek soup. Why does soup taste better in England than in the U.S.?

The last Harry Potter book was coming out in July, so there were advertisements in the shop windows. It amused me to see Harry so prominently displayed in the ancient town. There was also an incredible quilt which I had to photograph. A Harry quilt? Only in England!

There was a lot more to see and do in Kendal than can be done in one day. I missed several museums and the parish church was closed, despite the advertised hours on the door. I also didn't feel like trekking all the way up to the ruins, so satisfied myself with the old city gates--which might be older anyway.

Another spot that intrigued me was Beast Banks. I had one other familial address in Kendal. The Nelson side of my family lived in #2 Beast Banks. One record that I found said that one of my Nelson ancestors had been an Innkeeper. Imagine my delight to discover that #1 Beast Banks just happens to be the Black Swan Inn. Although I have never found any documentation, the coincidence is too great to be ignored. My family must have been involved in the historical Black Swan.

I left Kendal late in the evening, enjoying the shut down of the town. The journey back to Preston was uneventful and easy. The bus ride to the hotel uncomplicated. My trip to my roots was satisfying and I fell in love with Kendal!

Journeys in England: Part One

One of the best life experiences I have ever had, has been the summer I lived in London and studied at The Globe Theatre. I can't even begin to explain how amazing or how restorative this was or how it changed me both as a teacher and as a person.

In the summer of 2007, my beloved sister Robin passed away from lung cancer. It was unexpected and I was shaken to the core. I almost declined the ESU scholarship to study at the Globe, and then I decided that maybe getting away from everything was exactly what I needed.

Rather than go directly to London, I flew into Manchester. I had a few free days at a Marriott hotel saved up and decided to cash in at the Marriott Preston. This gorgeous hotel is an old English manor house that was converted to a hotel. The grounds are beautiful and the hotel is a vacation in itself.

It was quite easy to get to Preston from the Manchester Airport. There is a train terminal right there. My only suggestion is that you be extra careful when purchasing a train ticket if you do so by the automatic machines. I accidentally pushed the button for first class and cost myself an extra 10 pounds. At this time, that was approximately $20. Traveling first class on the train means you get a muffin (pre-packaged), a short bottled water, extra luggage space and the chance to sit relatively alone.

It was more difficult to get to the hotel. There wasn't such a thing as a shuttle and the bus, although close to the station, was difficult to understand for a newcomer. I ended up taking a pretty expensive taxi ride. I was a bit early for check-in, but this didn't faze the wonderful desk clerk. Within minutes I was in one of their lovely king rooms, unpacking, and sipping some delicious complimentary cocoa. There were also ginger biscuits (cookies)that fast became a favorite.

Having mentioned that I wanted to travel to Kendal the next morning, to do some genealogical research, the concierge knocked on my door about fifteen minutes after arriving. He had a train schedule and some local interest information for me to peruse. He chatted for a few minutes, explaining that it would be less expensive to travel after peak hours and random advice such as this. It was the warmest welcome I have had in any hotel, anywhere.

I found the deep but short tub fascinating. I could easily have drowned in there! I decided to soak away the grime of travel and was pleasantly surprised to find a selection of soaps and lotions--all of which could be purchased in the spa and salon, I found out later. Another pleasurable discovery was that the towel rack was heated. I usually like thin towels that are more absorbent, but wrapped in this big fluffy bath sheet, all warm and cozy was wonderful after an all night flight. I took a quick nap, deciding to explore the hotel grounds and have a leisurely dinner.

The corridors themselves were long and winding and led to small gardens and a courtyard. As I passed by the exit into this area, I saw a wedding in progress. It was one of three that I "crashed" over the weekend.

The corridors led to the aforementioned spa/salon and a heated pool. My one embarrassing incident was that I walked into the men's locker room by mistake. It wasn't well labeled (that's my story and I'm sticking to it). I didn't want to go for a swim, but there was an enclosed snack bar that had a window from which you could watch the swimmer while sipping a drink or munching on some crisps (chips).

For dinner, I opted for the Lounge Bar and found myself a poorly dressed guest at my second wedding. This was a jovial crowd, so I didn't feel awkward although I sat alone. They had wonderful soups and sandwiches in combinations which were unusual for an American. I chose a beef with horseradish and cucumber on a hard roll and a lovely soup. The prices were reasonable and the food was delicious. I actually ate there three or four more times during my short stay.

Their main dining room was a bit pricey but elegant. You may recall that I said that this was an old manor house? Well, they had preserved the atmosphere completely in the restaurant, Broughton's. Now this was a little awkward for a solo traveler as this was not only for guests, but s quantity of locals were fine-dining here. Reservations were required and there was a business dinner going on next to me. Not much good for a people-watcher like me as it is an intimate, rather romantic spot. I went back to the Lounge after that and enjoyed it immensely.

I must say, that given the opportunity, I would go back to this hotel in a heartbeat. Transportation difficulties notwithstanding, it was a terrific experience. I actually spent an additional day relaxing on chairs strategically placed in pretty places on the grounds and just walking around. My third wedding was held in one of the banquet rooms towards the back. They were a lovely bunch, blasting old Beatles tunes and trying to get passersby to come in and dance. Of course, the cash bar might have had a little to do with that!

They had a dinky little TV, and this was my first experience with "real" British television. There were three accessible channels and nothing interesting was on. I ended up watching "Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone", munching another sandwich via room service, figuring out the bus line (which stops right outside the hotel by the way). The whole visit was a wonderful experience and it gave me a chance to begin the grieving process.

Now...Preston managed. On to Kendal and an exploration of my Britisth roots.